Xochimilco Mexico City: The guide to visiting Xochimilco and its floating gardens; how to get there, how to rent a magical trajinera, at the the famous Xochimilco boats are called, what to do on the canals and in the city – from partying and souvenir shopping to getting deep into the wild.

Xochimilco Mexico City

Restaurant in the Chinampas, Xochimilco Mexico City, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

Xochimilco is this very colorful, day-trip destination in the southern part of Mexico City, just one hour away from the historical center.

Most of its magic was built hundreds of years ago on the surface of a lake. That is why, when people refer to Xochimilco, they mostly speak about the infamous parties on the “Mexican gondolas” drifting away on waterways surrounded by chinampas, agricultural plots, also known as the floating gardens. But Xochimilco is that and more.

To be honest, my first visit at Xochimilco Mexico City, came with no expectations. The destination itself just sounded very exotic and happy, but it wasn’t a ‘must-do’ on my list—just something I’d try if I had some extra time. Now, looking back, I know that skipping it would have been such a loss.

Drawing from my own day trip adventure, this guide could be your go-to for everything you need to know about visiting Xochimilco Mexico City. All in all, it’s a cultural experience with deep roots in its pre-Hispanic and colonial history that can’t be found or lived anywhere else.

Getting to Xochimilco from Mexico City

Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas, Xochimilco Mexico City, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

Xochimilco is less than 30 kilometers south of Mexico City’s central area, but it takes a while to get there. You can go by public transport, Uber or taxi, or, obviously, as part of an organized tour—something I detailed towards the end of the article, here: Xochimilco boat tours.

I chose Uber to get to Xochimilco. It was much easier for me at the time. And if you’re used to some other apps, there are also other ridesharing options like Lyft or DiDi. The journey by car took about an hour and cost MX$435 (about 21 USD) one way. I left at 10:35 a.m. from Durango, one of the boutique hotels in Roma Norte, and arrived right at the entrance of Embarcadero Nativitas (Av. Mercado 133, Bo Barrio, Xaltocan, 1090, Xochimilco) at 11:30.

By public transport, it will take much more time and require at least one transfer. You will need to take Mexico City’s Metro Line 2 (the blue line) to Tasqueña station, where you’ll transfer to the Tren Ligero (light rail) to Xochimilco – last stop. Just the light rail portion takes about 40 minutes. From near the station, you can take a local bus or minibus to Nuevo Nativitas, or walk for 15-20 minutes. Public transport is really cheap in Mexico City, so the entire trip won’t cost you more than 4 USD one way.

Floating Gardens of Xochimilco: It All Starts with The Chinampas

Xochimilco Floating Gardens, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

The floating gardens of Xochimilco in Mexico City, or the chinampas, are everything you’ve heard, imagined, and beyond, – an inspiring example of agricultural innovation and necessary food source, but also a charming nature escape for both Mexicans and people coming from far and wide.

Here, water lilies float beside the crops, verdant with life, and juniper trees cast dappled shadows over the waterways. Still, the major attraction remains the enchanting trajineras—the iconic brightly painted Xochimilco boats drifting along the lush, vegetation-lined canals. To make everything even lovelier, the air hums with mariachi melodies, mingling with the scents of freshly cooked tacos and quesadillas.

History of Xochimilco Canals

Maria Candelaria (1944) –  A movie about a woman growing flowers in Xochimilco’s floating gardens, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

Xochimilco is only a borough of Mexico City. In the Aztec times, however, much before the Spanish conquest, it was a city of its own on the southern shore of Lake Xochimilco.

The Xochimilco canals you will visit are an even smaller part of a 170 km (110 mi)-long remnant of what was a much more complex waterway network that connected settlements throughout the Valley of Mexico.

These canals emerged when the Aztecs started building chinampas —artificial islands used for farming crops, fruits, vegetables, and flowers—by layering mud, reeds, and vegetation to form fertile land on the lake’s surface.  Similar to rectangular, sunken rafts anchored by trees, the “floating gardens of Xochimilco”, honoring the Nahuatl name “Xochimilco,” (“field of flowers”), became fixed to the ground with time, narrowing the canals.

Mother & Daughter on a Xochimilco Boat, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

Nowadays, people still live along the canals, which have become UNESCO World Heritage site. Most of them support themselves by taking the tourists around the eco-park on brightly decorated, almost magical trajineras, as Xochimilco boats are called.

Magical Xochimilco Boats: The Trajineras

Xochimilco Trajineras, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

Trajineras are the iconic traditional Mexican flat-bottomed wooden boats, perfectly crafted by locals to navigate their way on the shallow canals in Xochimilco. Originally, these magical Xochimilco boats were the primary means of transporting goods along the canal system. Then, they were quite modest boats and did not have chairs or roofs

But over time, they transformed into colorful carriers for both parties and sightseeing adventures. You can rent a Xochimilco boat on your own or as part of a tour.

Each of them can be actually seen as a work of art, with its very own joyful personality. They are all splashes of color and character, decorated with flowers, and bearing all sorts of playful, welcoming messages.

Xochimilco Boat Drivers, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

At 12 meters long and 3 meters wide, a single trajinera can comfortably hold up to 20 people under its canopy. And despite its size, the boat works without a motor! Just as a venetian gondola has its gondolier, the trajinera is traditionally steered by a skillful and strong trajinerero. He (or she, as there are also women doing the job) moves the boat by pushing a long pole against the canal bottom in the waters of Xochimilco.

Renting a Xochimilco Boat / Trajinera on Your Own

Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas, Xochimilco Mexico City, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

Wandering on the canals of Xochimilco is one of the most colorful, memorable, and deeply traditional experiences you can have in Mexico City.  But to navigate inside the natural reserve, you will need to hop on a trajinera. And you can do that either by booking a convenient organized tour in advance or renting a boat on your own (or a spot on a boat) directly at the piers in Xochimilco.

For the ones who want to rent the trajinera themselves, the easiest and most popular starting point is the Nuevo Nativitas Pier. Once you pass through the entrance gates, head for the water, and you’ll likely notice the visitors’ center on the left. Here, you can find all the information on the official pricing of Xochimilco tours, canals maps with landmarks included, and even food menus.

Map of Xochimilco, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

A government representative is stationed at the visitors’ center to provide helpful information and ensure fair practices. This is particularly important because, outside, you’ll encounter many boat owners and operators eager to offer their services directly.

The government regulates the maximum price for renting a trajinera, ensuring that visitors aren’t overcharged. And the price is per boat, not per person, calculated on an hourly basis.

What to Expect From a Boat Ride on Xochimilco Canals

Trajineras Floating on Xochimilco Canals, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

Xochimilco’s Ecological Park is both a stunning natural sanctuary, home to some incredible wildlife and plant species, and the liveliest floating market I’ve ever seen. Every day of the week, people are partying on the canals as life along the shores continues at its own unhurried pace.

I would say it is one of the best places to learn about the history and traditions of Mexico’s indigenous people.

When they rent a trajinera, most visitors choose a 2-hour return trip on the main canal, where the energy is high, mariachi are singing, and fresh food is steaming all around.

But there’s also the 4-5 hour-long journey that takes you further into the quieter corners of the Xochimilco reserve, where the vendors thin out, giving way to calmer waters, almost untouched wilderness, a handful of floating gardens that are still in use, and locals just living their normal lives.

We rented our trajinera on a cloudy September Saturday, around 11 30, setting off from a sea of docked boats for a 5-hour tour. When we left the pier, even if it felt like weekend, there were still few people on the main canal. Most of them were groups of Mexicans enjoying the views, plus the vendors. On the shores, many shops were just opening.

🪇 What to Expect: The Floating Market – Things to Buy on the Xochimilco Canals

Xochimilco Vendor Selling Axolotl Plush Toys, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

Once we started floating away, we were instantly surrounded from all sides by colorful boats carrying goods (and services) to buy.

Some boats were selling Mexican street food, much of it made from masa, the traditional corn dough. For example, quesadillas, sopes, tlacoyos, and tostadas—some dishes were crunchy, others soft, and all filled with beans, meat, or cheese.

Elotes Vendor, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

I also spotted elotes—it’s the boiled (or grilled) corn on the cob slathered with chili, lime, and cheese—and, of course, chicharrones, the crunchy pork rinds with chili and lime seasoning. Both smelled amazing even from afar and are kind of must-haves if you’re into street food.

Food & Drinks on the trajinera, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

I got 4 quesadillas for around 160 mexican pesos. But I was not actually hungry. And unfortunately, after three hours on the boat, they went cold and lost their magic. If you plan to try them, they’re so much better warm.

Some boats sold drinks, too—beer, pulque, and mezcal were everywhere, targeting parties. Still, this time, I stuck on the non-alcoholic options available and grabbed a local juice and a bottle of water for around 60 pesos.

Caramel Apples and Mexican Snacks on the Xochimilco Canals, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

And then there was the highlight of my meal: a weirdly sparkling blue sugar-coated apple. I used to love them as a child, but this one was definitely something else, playful and new – a bit sweet, a little salty, with a hint of lime. Couldn’t stop taking pictures! And eating.

Beyond the food, some boats were carrying around handmade souvenirs like miniature trajineras, fluffy axolotl toys, and delicate flower crowns. Others, – beautifully dressed mariachi bands, waiting to fill the air of the floating gardens and the marketplace with music and passion.

🌱 What to Expect: The Eco Park, The Floating Gardens & Mexican People

Xochimilco Protected Area, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

After about an hour or so, we reached the Xochimilco protected area. The transition from the main canal to the smaller, quieter one—set at a different water level—seemed to be managed by a mechanized lock (boat lift). It gently lowered the trajinera, taking us from the lively tourist area into a real natural paradise.

This was where a whole new kind of magic began.

The music of the mariachi and laughter started to fade away slowly, as the scenery became wilder, and vegetation, denser. Beautiful birds were gliding as if nothing in the world could ever disturb their peace. Along the way, locals carried on with their daily simple routines—either transporting goods, working on repairing and painting boats, or quietly making their way to their destinations.

People living in Xochimilco Protected Area, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

Just to get an idea, the water inside the protected area is invaded by hyacinths and patches of green algae, being left with only small clear gaps for sunlight to shimmer through. Along the canals, you can spot a variety of birds—egrets, herons, ducks, and even the occasional kingfisher.

Water Hyacinths and an Egret, Xochimilco Ecological Park, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

Inside and outside the protected area, you can also visit the cute axolotl, Mexico’s national treasure, a fascinating amphibian, often called the “walking fish”. It was highly valued during the Aztec Empire, serving as medicine, food, and a ceremonial object. It was believed to be an incarnation of the god Xolotl, the brother of Quetzalcoatl,

Inside the Unesco Reserve, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

And the chinampas, the iconic floating gardens, are still there since the Aztec times. Some still grow vegetables, colorful flowers, or tall corn plants, and can be actually visited, while others are overgrown with grass, which makes them easily blend with the surrounding wilderness. The shores are often framed by reeds, which sway gently in the wind.

The rest of the vegetation is a mix of tall trees, including eucalyptus, cypress, and native willows, Ahuejote, with their long, draping branches that touch the water, and native shrubs that thrive along the banks. Vines climb freely, weaving through the trees.

Xochimilco Canals, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

To be honest, I don’t like the chairs on the trajinera too much, but I do love its slightly sloped front. It makes a great spot to stretch out a bit. There, you can lie on your belly, taking in all the miracles of nature and life at water level, where everything flows in perfect harmony. Or you can lean back, looking up at the skies and daydreaming.

Island of the Dolls in Xochimilco Mexico City, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

Going back to the actual trip, we eventually arrived at the infamous Island of the Dolls (Isla de las Muñecas). It was completely creepy—dolls with blank stares and missing limbs hanging from every tree. Honestly, I’d only recommend visiting if you’re into that kind of eerie, horror-like vibe. It’s definitely not for the faint-hearted! In what concers me, that half hour could have been definitely spent more wisely.

We returned to the piers through the same waterways, but by 4 p.m., the main canal was a completely different place than it had been in the morning. The canal was almost suffocated.

Tourists in Xochimilco, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

Boats were now packed with large groups celebrating birthdays, bachelor parties, and family gatherings.  The vibe, lively and chaotic.  Music was blasting from portable speakers, and mariachi bands were performing loudly from everywhere.

Xochimilco in the afternoon, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

People were here for the famous floating fiesta and an almost infectious energy and happiness were spreading from boat to boat. We didn’t hire the mariachi, but it costs around 300 mexican pesos /song.

For us, it was time to go. Until next time.

🗺️ Map of Xochimilco Tour Itinerary I had | 4-5 Hour Long

Xochimilco Canals Tour Map (check the live map >>) 

Xochimilco Canals Tours with Guide

While I went all in for a DIY visit to Xochimilco canals, you might consider joining a guided tour. Just to make it an even more cultural experience. The guided tours will offer insights you might miss on your own. For instance, I missed out on visiting the Axolotl Sanctuary or setting foot in a still-working floating garden (chinampa).

Obviously, there are various options for various interests— private tours to the eco reserve, fiesta-style rides, or combined excursions involving some of the nearby attractions, such as the charming neighborhood of Coyoacán. Plus, these Xochimilco tours sometimes often include transportation from your accommodation in Mexico City, a local guide, and sometimes extras like food, drinks, or mariachi music. Which would make everything more easier for you.

These are some top-rated options:

Other Things to Do in Xochimilco Mexico City

Stepping off the boat at Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas, we looked around for some more souvenirs. There were plenty of shops along the shore, as well as restaurants.

After spending a few minutes there, we hopped on a bus just outside the pier to take us to the center of Xochimilco. The small bus stopped in front of Hotel El Meson, where, if you haven’t tried pulque yet, there’s a well-rated Pulquería called Agave 69 nearby. In the same area, you’ll also find another trajjinera dock, Embarcadero Fernando Celada.

Plaza Central de Xochimilco, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

A five-minute walk later, we arrived at the Plaza Central de Xochimilco.

In the heart of Xochimilco, the charming plaza buzzes with life and sellers. There is this grand Cathedral of Xochimilco, a stunning 16th-century church built atop a pre-Hispanic temple, overlooks the square, where the Clock Tower and statues of Miguel Hidalgo, Villa, and Zapata echo Mexico’s past. Nearby, Casa Amaya, one of Mexico City’s oldest homes, adds to the historical charm of the old part of the city. Just minutes from the plaza, the bustling Xochimilco Market overflows with traditional foods like tamales and mole, as well as fresh produce and handmade crafts.

I think that exploring the whole center of Xochimilco took us no more than an hour.

If you still have some time left on your way back and plan to take an Uber, consider a stop at Museo Dolores Olmedo (featuring Mexican art and peacocks), Museo Anahuacalli (with pre-Hispanic exhibits), or Coyoacán, home of the blue-painted Frida Kahlo Museum.

When to Visit Xochimilco

Xochimilco Canals in September, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

Connected to a work event, I got to Xochimilco during the beginning of a rainy September. Choosing the time of the year was out of my hands. And even if each of the ten days spent in or around Mexico City started with warm, sunny mornings, heavy afternoon showers became the norm. Yet, on the day I explored Xochimilco, I was fortunate enough to enjoy a lovely weather.

I arrived at the trajineras dock on a Saturday morning, around 11:30 a.m., and the canals were still quiet, with most boats belonging to local vendors. The water itself was calm, reflecting the skies above. However, at the return from the 5-hour ride in the protected area of Xochimilco, the main canal was full of laughter, lots of mariachi singing, people drinking, eating, and partying on trajineras, many linked together for larger groups.

Xochimilco is such a colorful city, and its reserves lush and green year-round. However, it would be wiser to avoid the rainy season (May to October), as the afternoon showers that can obviously disrupt your plans.

In conclusion, the best time to visit Xochimilco Mexico City is during the during the dry season (November to April), when clear skies and mild temperatures prevail.

Xochimilco fiesta on a Saturday afternoon, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

When thinking about renting a Xochimilco boat, weekends are usually the busiest and most entertaining, especially in the afternoon. lots of local families and tourists are having fun while listening to the mariachi. If you prefer a more peaceful experience, I think it is better to visit either during the weekdays or weekends, but early morning.

During Día de los Muertos (from late October to early November), haunting trajinera rides cross the canals whispering tales of La Llorona and, at the same time of the year, shows about the Nahual spirits speak about the terror in the inquisition times. Great time to visit for a more cultural trip!

What to Bring With You

Xochimilco Visitor, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com

The most important thing to bring for a Xochimilco trajinera ride is cash. The floating market operates on physical money, so you’ll need it to pay vendors for food, drinks, and especially tips for mariachi bands. Even for renting a trajinera, cash is preferred. It’s essential to have pesos on hand. If you don’t have local currency, there are often local people on the shores of the canal who can exchange money for you and at a fair rate.

A second thing you can have with you is snacks and drinks.  While you can buy them from vendors on the boats, bringing your own can be more convenient and budget-friendly, especially when planning longer rides in the Xochimilco Natural Reserve.

Also, don’t forget to add sunscreen and a hat. Although the trajinera has a canopy, sometimes there might be little shade and a strong sun.

Finally, the whole setting – the charming boats, the floating gardens of Xochimilco, plus the party vibe – is a perfect place for your camera. I had mine, plus my phone, and I took some wonderful pictures. Trust me, you won’t want to miss capturing a single moment of the whole trajinera experience!

Tips & Tricks

Painting my middle name on the trajinera, Copyright © Cooltourismical.com